Thursday 17th July, 2014.

48.6 km, 9.37 kph, 708 km so far.

Another splendid day! A mani wall; keep left.

Two men resting for lunch at the side of the road invite me for a cup of chai. Why not? I’m sure the water is boiled ;)

Then back on the ‘road.’ It’s threatening to rain but nice and cool for riding. A very quiet day, no traffic to speak of in this wonderful, barren landscape.

By a small hydro-electric plant there was a mani wall and a dark little dhaba where I bought a bottle of Mirinda (bright chemical-orange soda) from an ancient man: sitting, praying, waiting for the very occasional passing cyclist. With sign language, I managed to learn that Brian and Josie were just twenty minutes ahead of me. I didn’t believe it: I had started later, cycled more slowly, had stopped for tea, …

A few spots of rain, just enough to warrant putting on a rain jacket, and then I was in Kaza. Brian was on the lookout for me, and I wheeled up the narrow main street to the German Bakery (I’m not really sure what makes a German bakery in India but they did have delicious yak-cheese cheesecake!) where Josie was waiting. We found a hotel, made a bit gloomy by the absence of any power. This seems to be a big problem in Kaza; it was over 24 hours before we got electricity and then it was barely on long enough to heat up water for a shower. (The cycling is fine; I just can’t handle cold showers!)

48.6 km, 9.37 kph, 708 km so far.